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Long Exposure + High Resolution Mode on LUMIX G9 ► Can it be done?!

Photo Moment - April 30, 2018

A viewer asked if you could combine the long exposure mode photography (to get a blurry waterfall, for example) with the LUMIX G9 High Resolution mode. The easy answer is YES… but the details may surprise you.

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So that's the big picture (wakka wakka). Next step is to see how it prints out. Have you tried yet?

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I think there's "mode 2" now in high resolution settings, introduced in a firmware update sometimes in 2019 (I believe) that makes movement during hi-res much less weird. You can now shoot even moving subjects with that mode.
Great job
I haven't seen your print video of this, but it should be fine if you don't stand too close. Big crops might be a problem though.
Well, I have a G9, and I don't use the Hi-rez mode. I just shoot multiple images, say, 6-12 max and stack them, primarily for Noise reduction. Then I use a fantastic program called, Topaz Gigapixel Ai. It's absolutely fantastic! You can get a free trial. I can not tell the difference from a native camera resolution of an image form a Gigapixel enlargement at 4 times the size, and they print Fabulous! Super for cropping!
Tonight I tried a moon shot in high-res and it was super blurry. Is it possible to shot the moon in high res or is it‘s movement to fast?
It’s possible: https://youtu.be/cAM0xII5SiQ
New firmware solved this problem?
Oh I see, I thought you had it. I’m not going to be able to test this, but read the updated specs on the last couple of updates. I know there was a change to how these high res images were handled but I don’t recall the details.
@@photojoseph I don't have the camera so why I'm asking, seems legit right? ;) To know before buy it.
You don’t know what? I’m saying to try it out because I don’t know if it did or not.
@@photojoseph I don't know, that's why I'm asking 😅
Good question… I haven’t revisited it. Try it and let us know!
Great info thanks a lot! You can also use the regular res image and enlarge it to the size of the high res one. Then you can replace the moving parts of the image that have the artifact using the enlarged regular shot. Since moving parts don’t need to be sharp that should work just perfect. No artifacts, no grains, just a huge natural looking long expo
You have a real great talent. But. You're talking too much about useless technical points and not enough about "photography". And, you're talking really to fast for non-English people. Shame. Friendly yours 😉
It's part of what this channel is for. If this isn't what you want, try The Photographer's Eye or Expressive Photography.
I have noticed many hot pixels while during long exposure with Panasonic g9. Is anyone had that issue?
Interesting. Thanks for sharing.
AllTheBest!
It was an interesting test. Since doing this video there is now a new high rez mode (“mode 2”) which compensates for movement. Haven’t tested it on the waterfall again though.
Great Video, I have to try this. Be good to know how the grain increase, which seems a good fix, effects the larger prints. Thanks once again.
@@photojoseph Thanks Joseph.
You’d have to print it to see, but also keep in mind that if you get more grain/noise than you like, noise reduction tools are pretty darn good these days.
There Is an old Photoshop plugin called pixel genius 1.67...It only works on the 32 bit version of Photoshop..You can do selective sharpening but more importantly selective smoothing...It works well for getting rid of artefacts such as these...
Hi. Can I make time-lapse mode to take hires photos?
I don’t think so but why would you want that? Time lapse = a movie. A full resolution regular still photo is way larger than 4K movie.
Instead of going into PS, why not just brush in a little negative clarity in LR? Its what the 'soften skin' setting does. I was wondering if you can do long exposures with the sensor shift modes, cool.
Good idea!
A couple things - 1) They just announced new FW with better hi-res motion algorithms, would be curious if it helps this, 2) What about the obvious choice of stacking multiple hi-res images? Is the pattern the same each time?
Well. I wanted to buy the Panasonic G9 but this is where to me it falls apart. And I shoot a lot of HiRes pics on my EM1.2 so yes, to me, it is very important...My E-M1.2 first of all can shoot 60s exposures and may be longer in HiRes. Which you do need to get really smooth clouds. This artifacting happens on them EM5.2 but in a more dramatic way. E-M1.2 does not seem to have this otoh. As an aside?: G9 is also restricting me for action shooting especially in video. They need OSPDAF period. DFD is very good and works in most action shooting, but has great difficulty with BIF...And that is sad since I like Panasonic cams a whole lot more than my E.M1 mark II.
the Pana hi res mode is different from Oly, Oly has the f8 limit but not the 1sec exposure limit, from memory i don't think i've come across a limit like that when using it.
The G9 uses the e-shutter for hi-res mode, which I think is where the 1sec limit comes from.
Sorry. I suppose that I should have finished the video instead of pausing and jumping the gun with the comment.
No worries. I don’t think it’s the lack of antialiasing filter because the water wouldn’t make that pattern
Hello. I'm a new subsciber as of about a minute ago. I also recently purchased the Panasonic Lumix G9 with the 12-60mm f/2.8-4 Leica lens and the 100-400mm f/4-6.3 Leica lens. I'm just learning digital photography, as I grew up shooting and developing film.
I have a thought on the lines in the photo. Some time ago I read something about an individual choosing not to purchase a G9 due to it's lack of a high pass filter. Please correct me if I'm wrong on all of this as I'm only trying to learn. I think that a high pass filter is supposed to help eliminate Moire. I then saw an example of the Moire on the back of a gentlemans suit coat. It looked quite a lot like the patterns you have when you zoomed in. Just a suggestion. Thanks.
Hi Joseph. I notice that with the hi res photos on the G9 that my Luminar and Aurora plug ins do not work. And sometimes I have problems with Lightroom as well.
Likewise in Affinity photo... I am hoping that when DxO Photo support eventually comes out they handle it...
Would the pattern be noticeable on a large canvas print do you think? @photojoseph
I honestly don’t know! Less likely than on smooth paper for sure though.
Joseph, where is the video field test of the mega lens and tele-converter you received the other day? Keen to see what your thoughts and outcomes on this product.
Still shooting for that
High, is it possible to use the high resolution mode with on/off-camera-flash like the Oly EM1/5 lines?
Very nice! I’m still waiting for someone to make wildlife photos using the HighRes mode before I get myself the camera!
Hi, my question with the DFD. As far as I know the DFD autofocus only works with native Panasonic lenses because they do not profile other brand optics with the DFD system (your video about DFD 1 year ago). Does anyone know if the Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 can track sports with a G9? (usually contrast autofocus is very slow and the Leica 200mm f2.8 is a bit expensive) thanks a lot.
YEs it can. Many use it that way with very good results. Don't give to much credit to DFD, Panasonic is just very good with its CDAF it seems.
Hi Joseph, I have another suggestion: do more than one High Res photo (let's say 3-4) and make an "mean average stacking" of them. That maybe will "merge" the pattern differently depending on the photo...
Oh I like it! I have a couple (at least two) of some scenes. I will see if any are mergeable and let you know. Thanks!!
I'd guess that the pattern you are seeing is (unintentionally) created by the camera firmware, that is generating a higher resolution image from 9 shots, where each of them is shifted for 1/3 of the pixel dimension. As the shifted pixels are overlapping with their non-shifted neighbors, the algorithm used to merge those images into one has to partially discard information for each of the pixel (in other words - calculate the new values for each of the sensor's cells - shifted and unshifted - based on the values from all the overlapping pixels). What you see is perhaps a side effect of that algorithm.

I'd suggest you shooting some predictable movement using this mode (perhaps with a faster shutter) to study the effect.
Interesting. I have reached out to Panasonic about it and hopefully will have a solid explanation that I can share with you.
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