LUMIX GH5 or Canon-Nikon dSLR for Safari? The choice is EASY
Photo Moment - January 09, 2017
Today's PhotoJoseph’s Photo Moment will be in answer to YouTube viewer Paul's question “I was about to invest in a DSLR (currently have a couple of Panasonic Bridge cams). My interests are nature/wildlife photography and I am off to South Africa in September 2017. But this camera excites me. Would this be a good buy for me ?” — this is gonna be fun to answer
PRODUCTS MENTIONED IN TODAY'S PHOTO MOMENT:
LUMIX GH5 (pre-order): [B&H - http://jal.bz/LUMIXGH5]
Panasonic Leica DG Macro-Elmarit 45mm f/2.8 ASPH. MEGA O.I.S. Lens [B&H - http://jal.bz/2jma6cq]
Panasonic Leica DG Vario-Elmar 100-400mm f/4-6.3 ASPH. POWER O.I.S. Lens [B&H - http://jal.bz/2iwK7zd]
Panasonic LUMIX G Leica DG Summilux 15mm f/1.7 ASPH. Lens [B&H - http://jal.bz/2jaJwnF]
Panasonic Lumix G X Vario 12-35mm f/2.8 Asph. Lens for Micro 4/3
[B&H - http://jal.bz/2jma6cq]
VIDEOS MENTIONED IN TODAY'S PHOTO MOMENT:
LUMIX GH5 First Look!! - https://youtu.be/BXiHKGRT3UA
I've been a photographer for 40 yrs and teach photography so trust me when I say it's terrible in low light.
As another on here said the actual max aperture at 400 mm is closer to f12.
Panasonic cameras are phenomenal with a set of features that is truly incredible - 4k video, 4k high speed shooting @ 30-50 frames per second, electronic and mechanical shutter, depth from defocus autofocus system, focus stacking processed in camera and some very nice art modes if that's your thing too.
However.........................
I found the image quality in less than great light ie around sunrise/sunset, was terrible sorry to say and the camera was always pushing that iso upwards of 6400 all the time and of course with the smaller sensor this is disastrous for image quality.
I was attempting to image some Cheetahs chasing down an Impala ( late afternoon light ), the lens maxxed out at 400mm ( 800mm fov ) and made the grass look like a cartoon - shocking and completely unusable.
This was repeated when trying to image Hippos at distance early in the morning unfortunately - very disappointing to say the least but I kind of expected it.
With normal light levels the combination really shone although when pushed sharpness was lacking at maximum zoom.
All in all I was very disappointed in the GH5/ 100-400mm combo and often found myself desperate for my Nikon 35mm/ F2.8 lens equipment - I really kicked myself for leaving it behind.
I would love to rid myself of the extreme weight of my Nikon 35mm equipment especially after spinal surgery, but I missed a lot of shots in Africa and need to return now at great cost just to get the once in a lifetime images I captured but can't use and that is incredibly frustrating but a good excuse to go back!.
In summary I'd say the Panasonic GH5 is a very good camera but it's small sensor is a severe limitation in anything other than optimal lighting , unfortunately most of the best images tend to occur in less than optimal lighting.
Panasonic make some great cameras currently but they are in no way any match for Nikon/Canon 35mm DSLR equipment I really wish they were able to replace my heavy gear but they simply cannot compete in low light imaging.
Anyway, I've been binge watching your videos since I discovered your channel last week. I'll be popping for a GH5, and I've just ordered your GH5 course.
That said, I'm sure you won't go wrong with ANY of those cameras, because I know they are all fantastic.
The autofocus in the GH5 is phenomenal, and potentially better than anything else out there. But THAT determination is up to independent reviewers (which I am not). Once the GH5 actually starts shipping, I'm sure you'll have 1,000 comparisons you can read. But if/when you do start reading those, keep this in mind — the GH5 has a whole new autofocus system with specific controls never seen before in any camera. Because of that, no one is used to it and no few know how to control it. We've seen this already in many early reviews. If you read a review about the AF in the GH5 and they a) dismiss it as poor AND b) do NOT talk about the custom AF settings, then look for another review. They haven't taken the time to understand what it can do. If YOU want to understand it, watch this video https://youtu.be/6PyqWrztPkc and you'll see what I mean. YES it's more complicated (which is unfortunate) BUT it gives you power and control you've never had before.
I will leave it at that. Enjoy ;-)
My Question for you is, do you think moving to the GH5 would give me better low light performance for pictures? I am going to be doing portraits, landscape, and astro photography. I also want to start doing video as well and time lapse.
Will this fit the bill? Every review so far is all about the video on this camera, and I understand this is marketed towards the video side of things but I would still like to take stunning pictures as well and worried that this might fall short as no one is talking about the photography side except you.
Any insight would be great....
Thank you
Thanks and keep up the great video's
But I get that your answering a query and trying to find the most economical way to get into wildlife photography.
Instead of using the 5D mark IV against the GH5, the 7D mark II would have been a better comparison. Similiar megapixels, fps and price. Also lenses you are able to use would be cheaper and lighter.
I'm mostly curious about image quality.
Really nice channel btw, I just subscribed and can't wait for the part 2 of the GH5 video with Sean ...
waiting for your replay ...thank you...
I gave up on the GH4 as a serious photo tool for action photography after my first job with it shooting hula dancers in a studio (with studio strobes) for a client ad campaign. I seemed to be just a hair behind the beat with the GH4. Over 50% of the shots hit the discard pile where I know I would have had way more keepers if I had shot the job with my D3s.
I can only assume the GH5 will improve in this area, but EVFs will always have some amount of delay compared to OVFs. The delay was bad enough in the GH4's EVF that two years later, I sold my two units with a little over 200 shutter trips, as they ended up being dedicated for video.
Tracking with continuous AF was also not a particular strong suit with my GH4s. Perhaps good enough for most uses, but not up to my benchmark D3s. I'd really want to give that a workout on the GH5 as well before buying.
Compelling point about the lens options vs. DSLR glass. But, the Sony RX10mk3's 600mm plus Clear Image Zoom, which gets you out to 1200mm effective, looks quite impressive. Not sure how it works or if it's really just a fancy name for a crop, but in video anyway, it's impressive (allowing my 18-105mm kit lens to actually behave like an 18-210) without noticeable drop off in quality.
Not hating on the GH5. Even though I just divested myself of almost all my m43 gear, I'm planning to rent a GH5 to test when my local rental house gets it in stock.
I have a GH5 on pre-order but specifically for wildlife the EM1/EM2 are worth thinking about.
[Disclaimer: I use the Nikon D810 and the GH4, though I have a strong photo/video split in use, which is for which should be obvious.]
Great, thorough, analysis. It seems that a slightly more complete answer to Paul Ost's question would include a comparison with an APS-C DSLR, specifically the Nikon D500 or Canon 7DII, both in the same price range as the GH5. The main wildlife lens to pair this with would be the Sigma 150-600mm, Tamron 150-600mm, Nikon 200-500mm, or Canon 100-400mm lenses. All of these are in the general price range of the Panasonic Leica 100-400mm, $1000-2050, though they are 1.5x to 2x heavier (since they are "full frame" lenses).
The D500/7DII could be paired with the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 ($800) and Sigma 50-150mm f/1.8 ($1100) lenses for fast glass in the "wide to tele" range, before getting to the super-tele range of the specialized lenses. Add a light prime (35mm f/1.8 or 50mm f/1.8) for the occasional "travel light" mission for about $200 more.
The total price is between $5000-6000, in the same range as the GH5 setup. The biggest benefit over the GH5: better autofocus performance, especially beneficial for a wildlife photographer. I have experience with the D810 and GH4, and the AF systems in the D500 and GH5 are better, but since both have improved, my experience might have some validity. Basically, the operational speed with the AF for moving subjects is significantly better on the DSLR. I can select my AF point faster and the focus is acquired faster, especially in lower light.
I think there are two reasons to prefer the GH5: if size and weight is a significant concern, and if video will be a big component of the use. The size and weight benefits of the GH5 really come into play with the lenses, especially the primes. And while the D500 is very good at video, there is every reason to believe that the GH5 will be one of the top 2-3 video producers in this form factor.
Canon 70-200mm = 1,4790 gramsPanasonic 35-100mm = 360 grams
Tamron 24-70mm =825 gramsPanasonic 12-35 = 305 grams
Tokina 16-28mm 950 gramsPanasonic 7-14mm = 300 grams
Nikon 800mm = 4,590 gramsPanasonic 100-400mm = 985 grams
I've heard Panasonic reps at CES say the GH5 will come with free V-Log upgrade for pre-orders. But I'm not finding this anywhere else. Did they mispeak?
I like the M43 format. I am interested in getting the GH5 when it's released. But if one truly wants shallow depth of field, then full frame is the way to go. Otherwise, the M43 with a 20MP sensor with no anti-aliasing filter should do pretty well -- especially in daytime bright light.
Regarding effective aperture, it's pretty much the same as effective focal distance. You multiply by the crop factor. On the M43 system, it's quite simple as it's 2x. So for example, your Nochticron 42.5mm f1.2 is effectively a 85mm f2.4 lens for the M43 system. You multiply BOTH the focal length distance as well as the aperture number by 2. For marketing purpose, all manufacturers list only the focal length equivalent but not the equivalent aperture number. Honestly it's quite misleading -- but it's done by all manufactures. I only recently discovered this myself. Here's a pretty good explanation by dpreview: https://www.dpreview.com/articles/2666934640/what-is-equivalence-and-why-should-i-care
Again, I'm not going to argue that you need FF if you are satisfied with your M43 system. You're the professional making a living with your system. While I did go to photo school back in the 90s, I'm not making a living off of photography so I won't try to convince you otherwise. I do want to point this out to people who many not know that there's a aperture crop factor and equivalence as well when comparing FF to M43 or APS-C sensors. As I acknowledge above, I only recently found this out myself.
I hear this argument a lot. You own one general purpose LUMIX lens. Try some of the faster Leica glass and I think your opinion will change. YES it's true effective number may be effective numbers (how do you calculate that math anyway; I've heard these number comparisons before but never understood how the math was done) and side by side there's a difference. But no one is looking at numbers when admiring photos on your wall.
Oh and I have plenty of shots from the Zoo of animals with bokeh shot on that lens Leica 100-400. Would I have MORE bokeh with the $13k 800mm Canon? Sure. Worth it? Hell no.
(MFT) 12-35 f2.8 = 24-70 f5.6 (FF)
(MFT) 45 f2.8 = 90 f5.6 (FF)
(MFT) 100-400 f4-6.3 = 200 - 800 f8-12,6 (FF)
There already is a less video-centric 20MP body; the GX8. That was the first 20MP body Panasonic shipped. I don't know what's next in the line-up after the GH5 though.
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